Due to the antioxidant properties of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its role in collagen synthesis, vitamin C is a vital molecule for skin health. Topical ascorbic acid has beneficial effects on skin cells, and some studies have shown that vitamin C can help prevent and treat skin damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation.
Beneficial effects of vitamin C on the skin:
- antioxidant – protects the skin from free radicals,
- reduces melanin, thus preventing the formation of pigment spots and also helps to eliminate hyperpigmentation,
- improves skin healing,
- increases collagen production (6, 7),
- reduces signs of aging (9,10,3,4,5,7)
- limits protein fibre damage (5),
- reduces the apparent roughness of the skin (3),
- reduces the development of skin tumours (1),
- Studies have shown that vitamin C reverses some age-related structural changes at the dermis-epidermis interface (8).
- reduces inflammation and skin irritation,
- increases the rate of fibroblast proliferation, a capacity that decreases with age (2),
- increases the effectiveness of moisturisers with UV protection factors,
- evens out existing unevenness for an even and radiantly beautiful complexion
Indications:
- tired and dry skin,
- hyperpigmentation and spots,
- enlarged pores, inflammation and acne,
- loss of elasticity,
- skin unevenness,
Contraindications:
- open wounds,
- allergy to vitamin C
(1) Study: Bissett DL, Chatterjee R, Hannon DP. Photoprotective effect of superoxide-scavenging antioxidants against ultraviolet radiation-induced chronic skin damage in the hairless mouse. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed 1990;7:56-62. (PubMed)
(2) study: Phillips CL, Combs SB, Pinnell SR. Effects of ascorbic acid on proliferation and collagen synthesis in relation to the donor age of human dermal fibroblasts. J Invest Dermatol 1994;103:228-232. (PubMed)
(3) study: Traikovich SS. Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photodamaged skin topography. Arch Otolaryngol Head Neck Surg 1999;125:1091-1098. (PubMed)
(4) study by Raschke T, Koop U, Dusing HJ, et al. Topical activity of ascorbic acid: from in vitro optimization to in vivo efficacy. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2004;17:200-206. (PubMed)
(5) study: Humbert PG, Haftek M, Creidi P, et al. Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo. Exp Dermatol 2003;12:237-244. (PubMed)
(6) study: Nusgens BV, Humbert P, Rougier A, et al. Topically applied vitamin C enhances the mRNA level of collagens I and III, their processing enzymes and tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1 in the human dermis. J Invest Dermatol 2001;116:853-859. (PubMed)
(7) study: Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatol Surg 2002;28:231-236. (PubMed)
(8) study: Sauermann K, Jaspers S, Koop U, Wenck H. Topically applied vitamin C increases the density of dermal papillae in aged human skin. BMC Dermatol 2004;4:13. (PubMed)
(9) study: Cosgrove MC, Franco OH, Granger SP, Murray PG, Mayes AE. Dietary nutrient intakes and skin-aging appearance among middle-aged American women. Am J Clin Nutr 2007;86:1225-1231. (PubMed)
(10) study: Purba MB, Kouris-Blazos A, Wattanapenpaiboon N, et al. Skin wrinkling: can food make a difference? J Am Coll Nutr 2001;20:71-80. (PubMed)